Is da’s soup without grain – there is such Russian saying. Volume of holes – without grain. But it is soup from the most capital letter! Тоя holes it is great and mighty, it is eaten quickly, and prepares even quicker.
Thais know also the European soups. Hardly eat, but know. In any case, any cream-supchik to cafe to you will submit, even the approximate onions. But unless it is soups, in our understanding?
Coastal Thais for certain already know about borsch existence. In any case, the appeal откушать a borsch can be met on the most unexpected corner. I all guessed: where Russian for seven versts go, really kissel (is crossed out) a borsch to sup?
But at inhabitants of Thailand the serious kitchen and soups in it take a huge place. It is clear that the standard supchik will be rice or with noodles. But not our hero.
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Galya Konstantinova, personal archive -
Galya Konstantinova, personal archive -
Galya Konstantinova, personal archive -
Galya Konstantinova, personal archive
One problem at Tom hole – it does not happen daily as Russian cabbage soup, it should be eaten at once. That, however, with enviable success, so it not the problem also does. And it prepares even quicker, than is eaten.
As at each our hostess own, almost confidential, but discussed by phone, the borsch recipe, and at each Thai hostess the recipe Tom a hole. Besides, Tom of holes has some versions: Volume of holes кунг (not to confuse to the film name «To kill a dragon», it with shrimps), Tom of holes пла – it with fish, Tom of holes кай – with chicken, Tom of holes тхале – with seafood (mussels, combs etc.). One more special version Tom a hole – with coconut milk. Though with chicken, though with shrimps – to all soups soup, besides not such fire-spitting.
Speak, presently all components of this soup can be found in large supermarkets of Russia. It would not be desirable to reflect on the prices. I – not the fan of authenticity. Also it is not ready to run across Moscow in search of expensive imported components for the pleasant exotic soups. We do simpler: houses always are pepper, soya sauce and ginger. Further – an imagination and love for the neighbor question. For now I will simply tell about the present Tom to a hole.
So, two fundamental options: with shrimps or chicken in coconut milk. All the same at first it is fried (who the pepper of Chile, garlic and onions could think). Further water or a broth in the first case, coconut milk – in the second is filled in. In the begun to boil broth the kaffir lime, галангал, coriander, a lime, mushrooms and tomatoes and a little red curry is added a lemon grass. There – shrimps (or that is ready for soup). Salt-sugar – to taste. We do not forget about soya and fish sauce. Aroma – not comparable with anything.
Unfortunately, this inexpressible aroma is created just by those seasonings, which are good (and are cheap) on the place. And a curry it is easy to find coriander, tomatoes. Straw mushrooms without loss for taste are replaced with oyster mushrooms or field mushrooms. With all problems can already arise the rest. Here about these seasonings it is necessary to talk separately.
The lemon grass (or a lemon sorghum) – together with a lime impacts citron relish and a smell. In soup the grass looks, as a broom, and it do not eat. But this grass cereal is rich with essential oils, actually, in medicine and perfumery long ago use lemongrassovy oil. Unfortunately, in Russia does not blossom.
One more tropical miracle – the kaffir lime (kaffir-lime). Unlike a lime which can in principle even be eaten entirely with a peevish expression, at the kaffir lime – fruits are inedible. But leaves are fragrant as the whole orange and lemon market. It is clear, as in east traditional medicine this plant is with might and main used. But its main task – to be the second broom in Tom to a hole. Without it – anywhere.
And still – a little linguistic digression. The Oxford work on food (from a series of "partners" – The Oxford Companion to Food) recommends to replace during our quivering times this name with other known: makrut-lime, for example. Everyone can easily understand the reason if to remember the historical terms "kafr", "kyafir" and absolutely to us the acquaintance – «гяур».
In a word, for the present the kaffir lime remains under the name, including in all encyclopedias and Wikipedias.
The third difficult seasoning – галангал, it is Kalgan medicinal, it an alpiniya. It is widely used in east medicine and cookery. But after all галангал – from family ginger, at the very least thus also it is possible to replace it.
It is not obligatory to do Tom of house holes. Enough any components sometimes to impact to our dishes easy relish ориенталистики.
Coconut milk is a special conversation. But who can tell, having read these recipes, what Thai cuisine is poor? And the such meet also. No, one Tom of holes is great and mighty that is proved centuries.
But also it yet end of the tropical fairy tale.